man's long pao (dragon robe), unknown maker from China

Exhibition Label:
“Flowers, Dragons and Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art,” Nov-2005, Mary Dusenbury
This man’s embroidered dragon robe is densely and intricately patterned with motifs that appear to be layered one over the other, an effect that was achieved by careful planning. In fact, no motif is superimposed on any other or on the lattice.

Archive Label 2003:
This man’s semi-formal court robe is densely and intricately patterned with motifs appearing to be layered one over the other. In fact no motif is superimposed on any other or on the lattice. The interruptions of the background fret are so carefully worked that they must be examined very closely to determine that the ground pattern does not actually continue underneath.

Most court robes feature a combination of Buddhist, Daoist, and Eight Precious Things motifs as well as auspicious characters. This robe is unusual in its emphasis on the eight Buddhist symbols. These symbols (Buddhist canopy, flaming pearl, umbrella, fish, lotus, endless knot, jar and conch shell) are prominently displayed in pairs around the central dragon on the front and back of the robe, worked in intricate knots that contrast with the more common satin and couching stitches used for the background and to depict motifs from other categories.

Chinese government officials not only had to pass difficult examinations in classical subjects to obtain their posts, but were required to supply their own official costume. The complexity of the patterning and the extensive use of the time-consuming “Peking knots” suggest that this official was affluent. The unusual emphasis on Buddhist motifs suggests that he was a devout Buddhist.